
Ingredients
Every ingredient in the encyclopedia, A to Z.
- 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
One of the strongest vitamin C derivatives currently available, offering excellent stability with performance approaching pure L-ascorbic acid in many formulations.
- Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline®)
A popular peptide with modest evidence for reducing the appearance of expression lines. While it can complement a skincare routine, it should not be viewed as a substitute for botulinum toxin injections.
- Adapalene
One of the most effective over-the-counter retinoids for preventing acne while also improving post-acne marks over time.
- Allantoin
A gentle, well-established soothing ingredient commonly used in products designed for compromised or sensitive skin.
- Aloe Vera
More than just an after-sun ingredient, aloe vera offers gentle hydration and soothing benefits, making it a valuable addition to products designed for sensitive or irritated skin. Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) Many humectants naturally occur in healthy skin as part of the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). These include: Sodium PCA Urea Amino Acids Lactate Sugars Minerals Together, these compounds help the skin maintain optimal hydration and flexibility.
- Alpha Arbutin
One of the safest and most effective over-the-counter pigment inhibitors available.
- Alpha Lipoic Acid (ALA)
A highly effective antioxidant, though it may not be suitable for very sensitive skin due to its potential to cause irritation.
- Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G)
One of the most stable vitamin C derivatives, providing gradual brightening with very good tolerability.
- Ascorbyl Palmitate
A useful antioxidant ingredient, though considerably less effective than newer vitamin C derivatives for improving pigmentation or collagen production.
- Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
A premium oil-soluble vitamin C derivative valued for its stability, elegant skin feel, and anti-aging benefits.
- Astaxanthin
One of the strongest naturally occurring antioxidants available in topical skincare, though clinical studies are still fewer than for vitamin C.
- Avobenzone
A highly effective UVA filter when properly stabilized within the formulation.
- Azelaic Acid
One of the most versatile ingredients in dermatology, capable of treating several skin concerns at once with excellent tolerability.
- Bacillus Ferment
An increasingly popular biotechnology ingredient that offers consistent, gentle exfoliation.
- Bakuchiol
- Benzoyl Peroxide
One of dermatology's most effective acne ingredients, especially for inflammatory breakouts.
- Beta-Glucan
An excellent soothing ingredient that combines hydration with barrier-supporting and calming properties.
- Betaine
A gentle humectant that pairs exceptionally well with retinoids and exfoliating acids.
- Betaine Salicylate
An excellent alternative for individuals who find traditional salicylic acid too drying. It offers many of the same pore-clearing benefits while being gentler on the skin barrier.
- Bisabolol
One of the most effective botanical soothing ingredients used in modern skincare formulations.
- Bromelain
A gentle enzyme that combines mild exfoliation with soothing properties.
- Calendula (Calendula officinalis)
A traditional medicinal plant with good evidence supporting its soothing and calming properties.
- Centella asiatica (Cica)
One of the most clinically supported botanical ingredients available, offering impressive soothing, barrier-repair, and wound-healing benefits.
- Ceramide AP
Frequently combined with other ceramides to create comprehensive barrier-support formulations.
- Ceramide EOP
An essential structural ceramide commonly included in high-quality barrier repair formulations.
- Ceramide EOS
A valuable barrier lipid that works synergistically with other ceramides to maintain healthy skin function.
- Ceramide NP
One of the most important barrier-repair ingredients in modern skincare. Suitable for virtually everyone.
- Ceramide NS
Another core skin-identical ceramide that contributes to healthy barrier function.
- Ceramides
The cornerstone of barrier repair and one of the most important ingredients in modern skincare.
- Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla)
A gentle botanical that provides excellent soothing benefits, especially for sensitive or irritated skin.
- Cholesterol
Frequently overlooked but absolutely essential. Cholesterol is one of the three major lipids required for optimal barrier repair.
- Citric Acid
While often included as a pH adjuster, citric acid can provide gentle exfoliation and contribute to brighter, smoother skin in well-formulated products.
- Clindamycin
A well-established prescription treatment that is most effective when combined with benzoyl peroxide under medical guidance.
- Coenzyme Q10 (Ubiquinone)
A well-established antioxidant that supports healthy skin aging through protection against oxidative damage.
- Colloidal Oatmeal
One of the best-supported natural ingredients for relieving irritation and improving barrier function, particularly in eczema-prone skin.
- Copper Peptides (GHK-Cu)
- Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu)
One of the most scientifically supported peptides for skin repair and barrier recovery, making it an excellent choice for aging or compromised skin.
- Crosslinked Hyaluronic Acid
Provides sustained hydration and is commonly used in premium moisturizers and treatment serums.
- Cysteamine
One of dermatology's strongest non-hydroquinone pigment treatments.
- Dapsone
A valuable prescription option, particularly for inflammatory acne in adults.
- Dimethicone
A highly effective protective ingredient that improves skin comfort while reducing moisture loss without clogging pores.
- DNA Repair Enzymes
An innovative category that complements sunscreen by supporting the skin's own DNA repair processes rather than replacing sun protection.
- EGCG (Epigallocatechin Gallate)
A concentrated green tea antioxidant that shows particular promise for acne-prone and inflamed skin.
- Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF)
One of the best-researched cosmetic growth factors with excellent evidence supporting skin renewal and repair.
- Exosomes
One of the most exciting emerging technologies in cosmetic science, but long-term evidence and product standardization are still developing.
- Ferulic Acid
One of the most valuable supporting antioxidants. Vitamin C, Vitamin E, and Ferulic Acid remain one of the best-studied antioxidant combinations in skincare.
- Fibroblast Growth Factor (FGF)
An emerging growth factor with promising research supporting skin rejuvenation.
- Free Fatty Acids
Barrier repair is most effective when ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids are used together.
- Galactose (Galactose-Derived PHAs)
A less common member of the PHA family that provides gentle exfoliation and hydration but has considerably less published research than gluconolactone or lactobionic acid.
- Ginseng (Panax ginseng)
A traditional botanical with growing evidence supporting healthy skin aging.
- Gluconolactone
One of the best exfoliating ingredients for sensitive skin. Gluconolactone provides gentle resurfacing while improving hydration and helping maintain a healthy skin barrier.
- Glutathione
A promising antioxidant, though topical research remains more limited than for vitamin C or vitamin E.
- Glycerin (Glycerol)
One of the most underrated skincare ingredients. Despite its simplicity, glycerin has decades of clinical evidence supporting its effectiveness and is often more impactful than trendier moisturizing ingredients.
- Glycolic Acid
One of the most effective and well-researched exfoliating acids available. Excellent for improving overall skin texture, brightness, and signs of photoaging when introduced gradually.
- Green Tea Extract (Camellia sinensis)
One of the best-researched botanical antioxidants, particularly valuable for calming inflammation while protecting against environmental damage.
- Growth Differentiation Factors (GDFs)
A promising area of regenerative skincare with limited cosmetic evidence at present.
- Hexylresorcinol
An emerging brightening ingredient with encouraging clinical evidence and good tolerability.
- Homosalate
Provides useful UVB protection but is generally used alongside stronger filters.
- Human Fibroblast Conditioned Media (HFCM)
A sophisticated biotechnology ingredient used in high-end skincare, though evidence varies depending on the specific formulation.
- Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Often included alongside larger forms of hyaluronic acid to provide hydration at multiple levels of the skin.
- Hydroquinone
Still considered the clinical gold standard for treating hyperpigmentation but should be used under professional supervision due to potential risks and regional regulatory differences.
- Idebenone
An advanced antioxidant used in premium anti-aging formulations with encouraging clinical evidence.
- Keratinase
A newer enzyme technology with promising applications for gentle exfoliation, though currently less common in cosmetic formulations.
- Kojic Acid
An effective pigment inhibitor, though irritation may limit its use for some individuals.
- L-Ascorbic Acid (Pure Vitamin C)
The gold standard form of vitamin C. When properly formulated and packaged, L-ascorbic acid offers the strongest scientific evidence for improving skin brightness, collagen production, and protection against environmental damage.
- Lactic Acid
An excellent option for dry or sensitive skin, offering effective exfoliation while supporting hydration and a healthy skin barrier.
- Lactobionic Acid
One of the gentlest exfoliating acids available. Lactobionic acid is particularly beneficial for mature, dry, or barrier-impaired skin because it combines mild exfoliation with outstanding hydration.
- Licorice Root Extract
A gentle botanical ingredient that combines brightening with soothing properties.
- Madecassoside (Centella asiatica)
One of the most evidence-supported botanical ingredients for calming irritated skin and promoting barrier recovery.
- Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)
A gentle derivative that offers brightening and antioxidant benefits while being well suited for sensitive or dry skin.
- Malic Acid
A supportive exfoliating acid that is rarely used alone but contributes to balanced exfoliation in multi-acid formulas.
- Maltobionic Acid
An emerging PHA with promising moisturizing and antioxidant properties, though clinical research remains more limited than for gluconolactone and lactobionic acid.
- Mandelic Acid
One of the best AHAs for beginners, sensitive skin, and darker skin tones because it provides gentle exfoliation with a lower risk of irritation.
- Matrixyl® 3000
One of the most widely used peptide complexes in modern skincare with excellent evidence supporting improvements in firmness and wrinkle appearance.
- Matrixyl® Synthe'6™
A newer Matrixyl peptide that targets multiple structural components of the skin for improved firmness and wrinkle reduction.
- Mexoryl SX (Ecamsule)
A well-researched UVA filter commonly found in premium sunscreen formulations.
- Mexoryl XL
Often paired with Mexoryl SX to create highly effective sunscreen systems.
- Mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris)
A popular ingredient in Korean skincare with promising early evidence, though more high-quality clinical studies are needed.
- N-Acetyl Glucosamine (NAG)
A gentle brightening ingredient that works especially well in combination with niacinamide.
- Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
One of the best supporting ingredients for acne-prone skin because it treats inflammation while protecting the skin barrier.
- Oat Extract (Avena sativa)
One of dermatology's most trusted botanical ingredients for eczema and barrier repair.
- Octisalate
A supporting UVB filter frequently used alongside more comprehensive UVA filters.
- Octocrylene
A common supporting sunscreen filter, though some individuals may experience sensitivity.
- Oxybenzone (Benzophenone-3)
An effective sunscreen filter with extensive historical use, although many modern formulations now rely on newer-generation alternatives.
- Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl®)
One of the best-researched cosmetic peptides for supporting collagen production and improving visible signs of aging.
- Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
A promising collagen-supporting peptide with growing research supporting its anti-aging benefits.
- Panthenol (Provitamin B5)
A highly versatile ingredient that combines hydration with soothing and barrier-support benefits, making it a staple in products for sensitive or compromised skin.
- Papain
One of the classic enzyme exfoliants that provides gentle resurfacing with minimal irritation.
- Petrolatum
One of the most effective ingredients available for preventing water loss and supporting skin healing. Despite common misconceptions, highly refined cosmetic-grade petrolatum is non-comedogenic for most people and has an excellent safety profile.
- Phytoceramides
Plant-derived ceramides can improve hydration, but skin-identical ceramides generally have stronger evidence for repairing the skin barrier.
- Platelet-Derived Growth Factor (PDGF)
A well-understood biological growth factor with limited but growing cosmetic applications.
- Polyglutamic Acid (PGA)
One of the most exciting modern humectants, often paired with hyaluronic acid to provide complementary hydration.
- Pseudoceramides
Well-formulated pseudoceramides can provide many of the same barrier-support benefits as natural ceramides and are frequently found in high-quality skincare products. Ceramide Complexes Many premium moisturizers contain multiple ceramides rather than relying on a single type. A common combination includes: Ceramide NP Ceramide AP Ceramide EOP Cholesterol Fatty Acids This combination closely mimics the skin's natural lipid composition and is generally more effective than a single ceramide alone. The Importance of Cholesterol & Fatty Acids One of the biggest misconceptions in skincare is that ceramides work alone. In reality, healthy skin relies on three primary lipid classes: Ceramides (~50%) Cholesterol (~25%) Free Fatty Acids (~10–20%) Research suggests that replacing these lipids together—rather than ceramides alone—provides more effective barrier repair. For this reason, many dermatologists recommend moisturizers that contain all three components in balanced ratios.
- Pumpkin Enzymes
Pumpkin enzyme treatments often provide a combination of gentle enzymatic exfoliation and antioxidant benefits.
- Pumpkin Ferment Extract
A promising ingredient commonly found in Korean skincare formulations, though evidence remains limited.
- Resveratrol
A promising antioxidant with growing evidence supporting its role in preventing premature skin aging.
- Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin)
The most effective topical anti-aging ingredient available. Excellent for acne and photoaging but requires gradual introduction and consistent sunscreen use.
- Retinoids
- Retinol
The classic over-the-counter retinoid. Effective for long-term anti-aging and acne prevention with excellent research supporting its use.
- Salicylic Acid
The gold standard ingredient for oily and acne-prone skin. Salicylic acid effectively penetrates pores to reduce congestion while helping calm inflammation, making it one of the most versatile and well-researched acne treatments available without a prescription.
- Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides)
A nutrient-rich botanical oil that combines antioxidant and barrier-supporting benefits.
- Snow Mushroom (Tremella fuciformis)
An excellent botanical hydrator that complements traditional humectants such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid.
- Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
An advanced hyaluronic acid derivative designed to remain on the skin longer for extended hydration.
- Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP)
One of the best vitamin C derivatives for acne-prone skin, combining brightening benefits with excellent stability and gentle performance.
- Sodium Hyaluronate
One of the best universal moisturizing ingredients available. Suitable for virtually every skincare routine.
- Sodium PCA
An excellent humectant that works synergistically with glycerin and hyaluronic acid to maintain skin hydration.
- Squalane
A lightweight emollient that closely resembles the skin's natural oils, making it suitable for almost every skin type.
- Stem Cell Conditioned Media
A rapidly growing area of skincare research, though product quality and supporting evidence vary considerably.
- Subtilisin
A refined enzyme technology frequently used in premium exfoliating cleansers and masks.
- Sulfur
A time-tested acne ingredient that works particularly well as a spot treatment for inflamed blemishes.
- Superoxide Dismutase (SOD)
A naturally occurring enzymatic antioxidant that helps defend the skin against one of the body's most damaging free radicals.
- Tartaric Acid
More commonly used as a supporting acid than a standalone exfoliant, contributing to gentle resurfacing and product stability.
- Tea Tree Oil
Tea tree oil can benefit mild acne but is generally less predictable and more irritating than many evidence-based acne treatments.
- Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD Ascorbate)
One of the most promising vitamin C derivatives for anti-aging. Its excellent stability and skin penetration make it a favorite in premium skincare products.
- Tinosorb S (Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine)
A highly advanced sunscreen filter that combines characteristics of both mineral and organic filters.
- Titanium Dioxide
Often paired with zinc oxide to provide more complete broad-spectrum protection.
- Tranexamic Acid
One of the best modern ingredients for stubborn pigmentation, especially melasma.
- Transforming Growth Factor-Beta (TGF-β)
An important biological signaling pathway involved in healthy skin repair and collagen production.
- Turmeric (Curcuma longa)
Curcumin offers promising anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects, though formulation challenges can limit its stability and absorption.
- Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine (Sepiwhite™ MSH)
A newer brightening ingredient with promising results, though more independent research is needed.
- Urea
One of dermatology's most effective moisturizing ingredients. Urea is excellent for both hydration and treating rough, thickened skin, with its effects varying depending on concentration.
- Uvinul A Plus (Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate)
One of the most advanced UVA filters available in many countries outside the United States.
- Uvinul T150 (Ethylhexyl Triazone)
Among the strongest UVB filters currently available in modern sunscreen formulations.
- Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid)
The benchmark topical antioxidant with decades of clinical research.
- Vitamin E (Tocopherol)
One of the most important supporting antioxidants. When paired with vitamin C, it significantly improves photoprotection.
- Willow Bark Extract
Frequently marketed as a "natural salicylic acid," willow bark extract is not a topical replacement for salicylic acid. It can provide antioxidant and soothing benefits with mild exfoliating effects but should not be expected to deliver the same pore-clearing performance as salicylic acid.
- Zinc Oxide
The gold standard mineral sunscreen filter with exceptional UVA coverage and an excellent safety profile.
- Zinc PCA
An excellent supporting ingredient for oily skin that helps reduce shine without excessive dryness.